48 hours of Milan meandering
Weekend city breaks. When you’ve got only a small window to sample somewhere new, are you a fan of a plan, or would you rather play it by ear?
Our two-dayer in Milan fell between the two. Tickets for an Italian date on Liam Gallagher and John Squire’s European tour served as a Saturday night anchor. For the rest, we opted to roll with it.
Before visiting, my knowledge of the northern Italian city would have fitted on the back of a miniature postcard. I associated it with high-end fashion - Gucci, Prada, and Armani, and being the gateway to Lakes Como, Garda and Maggiore. Mainly, I’d heard it described as ‘industrial’ compared to the more eye-pleasing Rome, Florence and Venice. I’d planned to use the flight over to boost my rudimentary knowledge, and then promptly left my guidebooks on the shelf at home. I landed in Italy, no further enlightened as to what Milan had in store.
Determined not to let our smartphones dictate our experience, we set out to explore more organically. We relied on conversations with a cheerful concierge, plucked tourist leaflets from the hotel reception, and let our instincts guide us.
Led by spontaneity rather than a military schedule, we encountered big hit tourist spots combined with some lesser-known finds. All delivered culture, architecture, history, fashion, and endless opportunities for gastronomic gluttony.
SEE:
Il Bosco Verticale
The striking sight of twin towers covered in lush greenery greeted us almost immediately after emerging from Garibaldi station. Known as Il Bosco Verticale or The Vertical Forest, these residential blocks are a marvel of architectural design, where humans and nature coexist. Each apartment balcony is a miniature woodland, and the towers’ dark exterior is designed to mimic tree bark. Surrounding this unique structure is a ‘tree library’ filled with herbs, ponds, and spots for picnics or relaxation. Milan’s ‘very industrial’ reputation didn’t get off to a convincing start.
Il Duomo
In Milan, all routes lead to Il Duomo, the majestic Gothic cathedral and the city’s central Piazza. It’s a mesmerising pale tangle of spires and statues and whether wandering aimlessly or on a mission, you will end up here. As with most imposing and important historical structures, it comes with crowds at all times of the day, abundant pigeons and hawkers trying to hard sell you all manner of tat. Duck whistle or creepy puppet anyone? Nevertheless this decadent 600 year old building deserves to be admired from outside, inside or both.
The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Equally unmissable and just off the Piazza Del Duomo is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II - Italy's oldest shopping gallery and a major landmark. This couldn’t be further from your Meadowhalls, Trafford Centres or other standard malls - with its decadent 19th century glass canopies and mosaic floors it's a showcase for all things extravagant. A leisurely amble will take you from the piazza to the equally visit-worthy Teatro Del Scala. Galleria shopping for the average person is strictly of the window variety, unless you have thousands of Euros to drop on a fancy handbag or fountain pen. But one bizarre ritual comes for free - spinning three times on your heel over a tiled bull’s testicle on the floor’s central octagon is said to invoke good luck. No bull!
SIP AT:
We spotted this famed place to sit n’ spritz when 360-scanning the buzzy Piazza Del Duomo. In the shadow of the cathedral, it’s the prime destination for sundowners of the screaming orange variety or otherwise. We made an impromptu stop-off and joined a lengthy queue, however TOP TIP - if you’re happy seated by the doors rather than on the coveted outdoor terrace itself, you may be able to jump the line as we did. With the grand glass doors thrown open, a cool breeze and sunbeams filtering through, our half-in, half-out table was more than acceptable. Especially when a platter of savoury bites appeared within minutes of sitting down.
The Sky Garden at Hyatt Centric
The lack of pre-trip research was responsible for the pleasing revelation that our hotel’s rooftop was an ideal first-night aperitif hotspot. Part of a collaboration with Red Bull’s botanical drinks range, the space is decked out as an urban jungle, with plantlife and other abundant foliage poking through its ceiling trellis and spilling over other surfaces. While this may sound like having a drink in your local garden centre, it was quite the unique experience. Prosecco, negroni and other delectable cocktails enjoyed from plush sofas, with soulful beats from a live DJ, and panoramic views of the city’s skyscrapers, and the Alps beyond.
Navigli’s waterside
Perched on a rickety upturned crate sipping Campari spritz through a dried pasta pipe straw at bar/deli La Prosciutteria, I was glad to have navigated to Navigli. A network of canals in the southwest of the city and a roughly 30 minute walk from ll Duomo, it felt more Amsterdam than Milan, a total contrast to the central areas. Navigli popped with countless quirky bars, restaurants, vintage shops, photogenic balconies and alleyways and the always joyful opportunity to sit and people watch by a waterway.
SCOFF AT:
Simplicity and hospitality, the website description of this tucked-away watering hole nailed it. Some tatty shutters and an unassuming A-board belied the interior of this place - conveniently next door to our hotel and perfect for minimal further trekking after clocking up a 30k+ steps day. A cavernous, atmospheric eatery with free-flowing limoncello, a chef’s special chilli oil for glugging over freshly baked bread, silky, yolk-yellow Milanese risotto and tiramisu. Authentic and warm, it felt like popping round to a generous friend’s for an excellent dinner.
If it’s humanly possible to tire of pizza, pasta, charcuterie and other savoury loveliness, the sweet treats at this bakery are other worldly. Pavé has several branches across the city and our morning stroll led us to their Via Felice Casati location. Saturday morning prime time meant the takeaway area was alive with people dropping by for their weekend sourdough straight from the oven. After a quality coffee, also roasted on the premises, we were soon feasting on fluffy panettone piled with mascarpone, and raspberry-filled croissants washed down with wincingly crisp blood orange juice.
Whether you're a meticulous planner or prefer to follow your instincts, Milan's blend of history, high fashion, under the radar places and culinary charms promises a rewarding experience. Next time you find yourself with only a weekend to spare, remember that sometimes the best way to savour a city is to let it reveal itself to you, one surprise at a time.
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